Saturday, May 14, 2011

Random Facts

HOW FARFALLE ARE MADE

Farfalle are made like regular seed beads but when the glass is drawn out of the oven the shape is created by a peanut size metal mold while regular seed beads have been drawn out of oven through a round metal tube.

Generally most colors are created in ovens in processes up to a week. Black and crystal are most common glass and black specifically is used often to clean out the ovens. Technically black is the darkest amethyst possible. Changes in color tone are related to exposure to heat and fire. We have all heard of blue topaz (looks like sapphire) well generally the difference in certain glass is the amount of heat or fire, so topaz glass production may end with so called "blue topaz" glass production as the formulas of heating the glass evolve. So lite sapphire production may eventually turn to cobalt, aqua to Capri and most difficult as explained below hyacinth into Ruby.

Red, Pink, Orange even "nice" purple are hardest glass to make. Red for example in transparent glass, i.e ruby Siam or garnet can not be made in chambers or ovens cause they are sensitive to heat. We have all seen inconsistent burnt red seed beads and off shades of pink these colors are mixed, more by hand, sensitively away from the heat.

Currently natural red and pink farfalles are not produced. It is believed to be technically possible but due the heating process and the more awkward shape it has not been attempted yet, which is why you may see pinks or purples in coated colors not natural colors.

HOW PICASSO COATING IS APPLIED

Picasso, otherwise called travertine (Marble Stone), is a kind of luster. Liquid is mixed in a pot
, then beads put in this liquid and mixed properly. Some layer remains on the surface of beads. Then they have to go into oven ( the temperature, is about 400-600 Celsius). Then the beads can be cut or beads remain and as is fully coated like pressed beads.

Beads that are cut, Czech uses term though cut. Cut through the glass. So the base color of bead shows in center and the Picasso is used around the perimeter. Generally this is for fire polish.

Seed beads are coated same way and cuts can be one cut, which is Charlotte in theory, or three cut which would refer more toward fire polish cutting. A three cut and Charlotte are special forms of cutting as well as through cut Fire Polish cause the base bead maintains its original shape. Generally tools maintain the amount of cutting. Tools that rotate fully apply facets evenly, 3 cut bead beads perhaps have gaps set while bead rotates and Charlotte or one cuts do not rotate.

MYTH ABOUT TWO CUT OR HEX BEADS, THEY ARE NOT CUT!


Hex is a Japanese term. Two Cut a Czech term. Hex means Six Sided. Regardless, the cuts or sides are created from a metal tube. When the Pixies stick size glass is drawn out of the oven it goes through this tube or mold and the shape is formed as the glass cools. The farfalle is a Peanut Shaped tube and of course a normal rocaille or round seed beads is drawn through a round tube. See this link below for more Czech seed bead shapes:

http://preciosaornela.com/web/files/seed_beads_shapes_EN.pdf

Metal tubes create all these shapes. Extra facets are applied in a fire polishing process, beads are put on wires then scratched by needles during a wheel churning technique while the beads are hot. The facet's surface is created as it cools. Due to the "wheel" faceting process only beads with center holes can be faceted, i.e. a magatama seed beads or top drilled pressed beads or briolettes cannot be faceted by a fire polishing process. They are top heavy and will break off the wire or a facet at the hole side will destroy the bead.

Enjoy!

Monday, March 7, 2011

The Garment Center and Beads




99% of Beads Imported into the City before World War Two were for garments. As time passed, local embroidery prices rose, and the shift in the accessories market move more toward jewelry. Swarovski brought there expertise in rhinestones, and applied that technology to beads and crystals. Then as the hippie and ethnic markets emerged, other materials emerged, like wood and shell ,but in glass, my favorite of course, so called African Trade beads as my dad says "got hot". Trade bead dealers, unlike today, were stationed out of Harlem. We could get 200-500 strands any given day if available, and they were out the door before you knew it. These were old strands, 1930's and prior. As the trade bead dealers disappeared, taking their earning back to Africa, we attempted to Import copies, from Venice, in the sixties and seventies (see cards) which also became "trade beads". I found these YORK made sample boards in my dad's office, in these wooden display cases( see pics), which were used by our salesman to show Miriam Haskel or Carol Dauplaise to name a few, the current trends(beads that could be reordered unlike the Harlem dealer's stuff).Carl Schimel, formerly of Kim's Craftman fame, and now with CJS Sales, http://www.cjssales.com/, told me during this time period the juniors sections of department stores were becoming more vital, and sales to younger crowds were where you wanted to be. Today as the garment centers continues to recede, Jewelry Crafts and manufacturing still evolves.

Friday, February 18, 2011

People and Places are Vintage Too!!!



Hello All,

First want to thank all of you who came to visit us in Tucson. Phil and I had a great time!
Surprisingly a few people came up to me and asked "why don't I blog more". Easy answers are: Time, Inspiration and Time. Time is a funny thing in the bead business. I have bought many a bead book over my 25 years in the business. One thing that amazed me was the documentation, or sample cards even, from companies that no longer existed. These were relevant companies in their day(or time). What happened??? Where did they go, did they reform into a new entity, more Importantly why did they vanish: technology, family hardship or did they just plain retire or close up shop. The Internet, social media, bead making technology and most Important, you, the bead artist, or purveyor, has changed over time. York Novelty or www.yorkbeads.com is changing too.

We are getting rid of the Old Offices and working on new Ones. We are rediscovering the old beads and re coating them into new, as well as searching out all the new coating and technologies of today.

Will keep you posted....

Perry

Friday, January 7, 2011

Tucson or Bust,! (so to speak)

Happy New Year,

Have been going to Tucson for 20 years, just the last five or so as a vendor. Amazing experience. Used to love seeing Beads Galore of Tempe, at the Howard Johnson's on Speedway(Bernie was always most gracious), we would walk up the road, a 1/2 mile desert walk, to what my wife and I called African Village. If you were a collector or grew up with trade beads, it was a sight to see. Learned so much that I bought a old strand of "Russian Blue" trade beads from Picard.

Times have changed. First time in 30 years Beads Galore is no longer showing, the construction on the highway removed African Village and now a load of us east coast companies exhibit. We will be at To Bead True Blue Jan 31st, 2011 - February 5th, 2011 and Tuscon Bead Show 2011 February 5th - 8th, 2011. Booth : GP 239 & 240.

Each year we put some time and effort putting something new together for Tucson. This year is no exception. Expect to see this year: Last years big hit, peacock daggers, an expanded farfalle butterfly seed bead selection, unusual Picasso seed beads, bugle beads, fire polished and pressed. Some items are vintage base colors that were coated especially for us. We will also have an amazing selection of 2mm and 4mm Round fire polish featuring elusive metallic, opaque and specially treated colors that will knock your socks off. Not to mention , Size 15 Czech real metal Charlottes will be on hand this year, a yorkbeads.com exclusive!!! More Tucson surprises soon to be announced, real soon!

Regards,

Perry (PBeads)

Wednesday, January 5, 2011

Pablo Picasso vs Czech Picasso

Why is it called a Picasso Bead?? Not sure but has a nice ring to it. Picasso usually is either a marbled travertine effect or heavy luminous coating with spotted accents. Either way, the purpose of the coating is to give that popular semi precious look we all deem precious. Generally this finish is most popular in turquoise, but sells well in beige and even better in a mix. Some glass color just do not take the coatings well: finish is weak. Mixes, can be an assorted mix of solid colors. Here, the weaker finishes blend in with the stronger ones and create a great potpourri look. Or we can combine 2 or more glass rods while pressing a bead, and the blend of the color may create a great base canvas for this coating. Beige is a great glass for this purpose. Individually the coating make the strongest most popular travertine finish but combined with the a second glass partner some magic can happen. Our new Navy/Beige combination rocks


Not sure what old Pablo thinks about all this and how he got dragged in, seems like Hans Hoffman has more in common with this process. It ain't paint but when you splash melted glass rods together something wonderful can happen!!

Tuesday, September 28, 2010

Daily New Comic 9/27/2010

F Minus


I remember asking a bead store owner in 1989 "why you open a store???". "As far as I remember people always used beads", she said. True, but people consume gas, clothing, hot dogs and more and unfortunately I do not see as many Gaps or Nathans around as I used to. The comic seems to be referring to the old fashion Garment district days or does it???

I think back to the day Americans were Machinists and had trades, now perhaps we are more purveyors and more Importantly Crafters and Jewelry artists and beads now are just the muse. The creativity is the fall back, but nice to have a bead bank too :-)

Wednesday, August 25, 2010

What's underneath the service!

These are the base beads I talked about in my blog yesterday. Look how lonely and ordinary they are. One of the great aspects of the Czech bead industry, are the variety of colors, which are enhanced by their unique coatings, like the Picasso finish. There is no such thing as ugly beads!!